Engaku-ji: Temple of Perfect Enlightenment

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Engaku-ji: Temple of Perfect Enlightenment

The area of northwest Kamakura close to present-day Kita-Kamakura Station is the location of numerous important Rinzai Zen temples.

One of these is Engaku-ji, which is the second ranked temple among Kamakura’s Gozan, or “Five Mountains” temples. (In order, Kencho-ji, Engaku-ji, Jufuku-ji, Jochi-ji, Jomyo-ji.)

This is the entrance to Daihonzan Engaku-ji (Head Temple Engaku-ji) off the old Kamakura Kaido road.

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Looking left, Kita-Kamakura Station is just visible over the pond behind the cherry blossoms. The pond is called the White Egret Pond. According to temple legend, when the temple founder departed China he was led to this spot by a white egret, which landed on the water.

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Much of the pond was reclaimed and the surrounding forest cut down in 1889 to allow for the construction of one of Japan’s first railways, the Yokosuka Line.

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Most visitors thus begin their Engaku-ji journey here, on the new path that runs parallel to the tracks. at the foot of the steps to the Somon gate.

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Beyond the Somon, the mighty Sanmon.

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And from the shadow of the Sanmon, the Butsuden. The main hall, like many other buildings on the temple grounds, has been destroyed in catastrophes and studiously rebuilt numerous times since the temple was founded in 1282. The present Butsuden was completed as recently as 1964.

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The main image of Shaka Nyorai is original only above the shoulders. The white dragon on the ceiling was painted at the time of the reconstruction by Moriya Tadashi (1912-2003) under the watchful eye of Maeda Seison (1885-1977), who lived very close to Engaku-ji for decades and understood the job at hand.

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A monk on his way in, cherry blossoms on their way out (April 1, 2023).

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Gateway to Kojirin, a Zen meditation space for lay people. Visit the temple’s website for details.

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The Hojo, originally the abbot’s quarters, behind a juniper dating from the time of the temple’s establishment, so well over 700 years old.

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The temple complex is laid out either side of this long central path.

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To the left, Shoden-an. Suzuki Daisetz (1870-1966), popularly known as D.T. Suzuki, lived and worked right there when not sharing his profound knowledge of Buddhism overseas. Suzuki’s compact “An Introduction to Zen Buddhism,” written in 1934, was targeted at foreign readers “who wish to have just a little preliminary knowledge of Zen.” That’s just one of many books and lectures by Suzuki, who was fluent in English, that helped to popularise Zen around the world.

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Today as most days there is no access to the Shariden, wherein a tooth of the Buddha is said to be enshrined. The building is arguably the oldest in Kamakura and is the only one to be designated a National Treasure.

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Butsunichi-an, a mausoleum dedicated to Hojo Tokimune (1251-1284), a colossal figure in Japanese history, propagator of Zen and the hands-on founder of Engaku-ji.

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Yamabuki (Japanese kerria) (April 1, 2023)

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The White Deer Cave, so named for the mysterious white deer which are said to have emerged from the little cave at the very moment of Engaku-ji’s dedication.

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Mitsumata (paper bush)

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Lizard and lichen

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Rock tobacco, paper plant and cherry blossoms

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The temple bell at the top of the hill, cast in 1301, is a National Treasure.

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The view from the top with the benefit of zoom. In the center is Tokei-ji, a former convent, sanctuary for women and the burial place of many artists and literati, including the aforementioned doyen of Japanese-style painting Maeda Seison and Zen luminary Suzuki Daisetz.

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The entrance to Kigen-in. Natsume Soseki (1867-1916) lodged here for a couple of weeks in 1894 along with a similarly young Suzuki. I Am Not a Cat so can only peer through The Gate.

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The kyudo (archery) dojo (training hall) just inside the entrance to Engaku-ji.

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The way out is the way in.

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Text and photos: Alex Hendy, The Japan Journal

Acknowledgments: Temple signs and pamphlets; Kamakura, A Contemplative Guide (Burritt Sabin); Exploring Kamakura (Michael Cooper); Kamakura, Fact and Legend (Iso Mutsu)